How to Build and Grow a Salad Garden On Your Balcony
Even if you’ve got alittle space, you’ll still grow a garden robust enough to supply an entire salad. Container gardening is that the perfect solution, whether you’re short on square footage or simply trying to guard your greens from lettuce-loving critters. and do not worry, building your own planter is simpler than you think that , especially once you use weather-resistant cedar. Follow these steps to make your own cedar planter, then find out how to fill it with fresh vegetables. Soon, you will have an excellent mix for the right salad conveniently growing on your balcony.
- 1 Things you will need
- 1.1 1: Create the bottom of the Planter
- 1.2 2: Build the Planter Base
- 1.3 3: Finish the inside Framework of the Planter
- 1.4 4: Apply the Cedar Plank to Sides of the Planter
- 1.5 5: Create Legs for the bottom
- 1.6 6: Drill Holes for Drainage
- 1.7 7: Fill With Raised Bed Soil
- 1.8 8: Add Your Favorite Salad Ingredients
- 1.9 9: Feed and Water
Things you will need
- 1 x 6 cedar, 8 feet long (1)
- 1 x 2 cedar, 8 feet long (5)
- Power miter saw
- Eye protection
- Cedar closet liner (1 pack)
- Drill or power screwdriver
- 1/2-inch twist drill
- Pneumatic or electric stapler
- Staples (3/4 inch and 1 1/4 inch)
- Kreg pocket screw jig
- 2-inch wood screws
- 1 1/4 inch wood screws
- Wood stain
- Applicator brush
- Clear water sealer
- Gardening gloves
- Nature’s Care® Organic Raised Bed Soil, 32-ounce bags (3)
- Nature’s Care® Organic & Natural Vegetable, Fruit & Flower Food (1 bag)
Using a miter saw, cut two 46 1/2-inch pieces from the 1 x 6 cedar. Next, cut the 1 x 2 cedar into the subsequent pieces:
- Two 46 1/2 inch pieces
- 12-inch pieces oven
- Two 11 1/2 inch pieces
- Six 9 1/2 inch pieces
- Eight 9-inch pieces, with 45-degree miters cut on one end
- Two 11 1/2 inch sections, with 45-degree miters on both ends
Now, cut the planks from the cedar closet liner into six 47-inch long sections and 6 11-inch long sections. confine mind that you’re going to need to remove a 1/2 inch from each end to urge obviate the tongue-and-groove, so measure and cut accordingly.
2: Build the Planter Base
Place the 2 46 1/2 inch 1 x 6 pieces together on a piece surface, butted tightly together. Position the four 9 1/2 inch pieces of 1 x 2 cedar centered across the 2 boards. Two should be positioned at each end, and therefore the other two should be spaced at 15 1/2 inch intervals in between. There should be a 3/4-inch gap on all sides (you can use a scrap of 1 x 2 turned jittery as a spacer block). Secure the 1 x 2s to the 1 x 6s with 1 1/4 inch wood screws.
3: Finish the inside Framework of the Planter
One at a time, attach eight 9-inch 1 x 2 pieces upright against the ends of the four 1 x 2 horizontal sections. Secure them with 1 1/2 inch wood screws. Now position two 46 1/2-inch 1 x 2 sections across the tops of the four upright legs, then secure them with 2-inch wood screws.
Complete the framework with two 9 1/2 inch pieces attached crosswise between the ends of the 46 1/2 inch pieces, using 1 1/2 inch screws.
4: Apply the Cedar Plank to Sides of the Planter
Begin with the ends of the planter box. Using the 11-inch cedar plank sections, start by aligning one piece on the highest edge with the tongue facing upward. Secure it to the framework with four 3/4-inch staples. Then, insert the tongue of subsequent piece down and staple it within the same pattern. Repeat for the third row. attend the other side of the planter and repeat this process.
Apply planks to the front and back of the planter, using the 47-inch cedar planks. Align the highest piece and secure it with two 3/4-inch staples driven into each of the four vertical 1 x 2s. Insert the tongue of subsequent row down and repeat until the planter box is entirely covered.
If desired, stain the remaining 1 x 2 pieces with a contrasting hue. Then apply an outside clear water sealer to guard the outside of the cedar.
Once the stain has dried, drill pocket holes within the ends of the 2 11 1/2 inch sections, using the Kreg pocket jig.
Using 1 1/4 inch staples and miters on both ends, secure the 11 1/2 inch 1 x 2 sections to the underside of the planter, making them flush with the sides . Next, align the 8-inch long 1 x 2 sections with miters on one end to the front and back fringe of the planter, butted tightly against the mitered ends of the previous pieces, then secure with staples.
Now, install the 11 1/2 inch pieces with pocket holes against the square ends of the 8-inch sections, and staple to the bottom . Finally, position the 12-inch sections vertically against the box, aligned with the pocket holes in order that 5 1/2 inches extend up past the bottom . Screw it in situ through the pocket holes. From the within of the planter, use 3/4-inch staples to secure the highest of the legs in situ.
6: Drill Holes for Drainage
In bottom of the planter, drill six holes per section for water drainage, employing a 1/2-inch twist drill .
7: Fill With Raised Bed Soil
Use Nature’s Care® Organic Raised Bed Soil to offer your garden an excellent foundation.
8: Add Your Favorite Salad Ingredients
Fill your planter with a spread of vegetables and plants per directions. I used a dwarf container tomato (it only gets 2 feet tall), a sweet pepper plant, Lacinato kale, butter lettuce, and chives. If the plant is somewhat root-bound, gently break the roots into loose tendrils to form it easier for the plant to root itself within soil.
9: Feed and Water
After one month, sprinkle Nature’s Care® Organic & Natural Vegetable, Fruit & Flower Food over the soil in your completed container, following instructions, including working the granules into the soil. Water thoroughly. Follow the instructions for follow-up feedings over the course of the season.